Cheese and Wine Pairing with Baetje Bloomsdale, Goat's Milk Style

Today,I'll be your cheese and wine pairing guide! A couple weeks ago Miss Cheesemonger and I got together to make paneer (you might remember her gorgeous pictures of the fluffy pressed cheese or the recipe link to her blog). Well, we had so much fun we decided to team up again.

Baetje's Bloomsdale: Goat Cheese and Wine Pairing

We decided that Vero would match Bloomsdale to whatever snack the cheese's heart desires and since I'm a wine girl, I would be your booze lady. Cool thing is, this pairing also pays it forward.

Baetje Bloomsdale

Since Baetje's Bloomsdale is a classic example of a Loire Valley goat cheese, today's cheese and wine pairing can also be applied to most Loire Valley friends and many soft, rinded goat cheeses, and the same goes for Miss Cheesemonger's picks.

Now for Bloomsdale.

Bloomsdale's maker, Veronica Baetje, makes cheese in a Mennonite community in Sainte Genevieve County, Missouri. As the NY Times reported when they covered the creamery after a recent World Cheese Award win, Baetje is an inspired creamery. Bible quotes grace her labels and the Baetje considers themselves devoted followers. Yet she's very modern and not afraid to stray from the course. From driving her used Porsche through Mennonite sedan-country to making time-consuming goat cheese that could topple over a Valency in a cheese competition, Veronica is not afraid of doing things her own way.

Bloomsdale getting ready for its cheese and wine pairing party

Her cheese shows this. That little number above is made in the traditional Loire Valley goat cheese style. Meaning it's a lactic-acid set cheese covered in a thin layer of vegetable ash over which a thin white layer of Penicillium Candidum mold grows.

Which brings us to goat cheese and wine pairing. There are two things to mind with this little Bloomsdale when pouring a glass of juice.

1.When pairing soft- in this case lemony and sometimes lightly grassy- flavors with wine, keep it simple. Cheesemakers work hard to preserve those lovely subtle notes in their cheese and you don't want to pick a wine that overwhelms them. Don't go too big.

2. Bloomy rinds are fussy, and their lists of annoyances are as long as Kanye West's. They dislike a lot of oak- doesn't let them stay the star of the show. They don't like tons of red fruit- gets in the way of the PC mold. And when left in a room together bloomy rinds and tannins dry the mouth and have been known to get into a slapping fight (it's embarrassing, really).

Cheese and wine pairing, on.

Goat Cheese and Wine Pairing Picks: Bloomsdale

The type of wine to focus on for a cheese like Bloomdsale is a wine like Chasselas from the Savoie region of France, pictured in the third photo above. Though un-oaked, it's lightly creamy mouthfeel mimics soft Bloomsdale. Sur lie-style Muscadets (made with the Melon de Bourgogne grape) and light sparkling cremants would have a similar effect.

Another way you can go is go citrusy and zippy. Not surprising because it's from the same region as any Loire Valley cheese, Sauvignon Blancs make a perfect goat cheese and wine pairing. You can extend this to a lean Chablis too. But stay away from uber-fruity wines. They will overwhelm.

If you need to go red for your cheese and wine pairing, try a Beaujolais or Cabernet Franc. Most are zippy and have low oak and tannins (see consideration #2).

I've left a glass on the table for you.

Head on over to Miss Cheesemonger's blog to see the second part!

Cheese & Wine Classes: School Time!

Are you ready to sharpen your pencils to a dangerous point, fill your binder with white paper, and put on your new super hero backpack? I already have, but if you've been too busy to go back-to-school shopping, don't worry about it. Places like The Cheese School of San Francisco pimp their own writing supplies. The Wonder Woman backpack is up to you (psst, find two and I'll give you my mailing address).

Cheese Class Time!

This August and September I'll be teaching two classes at the Cheese School of San Francisco. Official descriptions are below. If interested in joining, follow this link to reserve a spot with the school. I hope to see you there! Want more cheese action or live out of state? Keep scrolling.

EDUCATIONAL CHEESE OPPS:

Cheese & Rosé Wines, Tuesday, August 30, 6:30 – 8:30 pm

Not to be confused with the jug wines of yesteryear, the exquisite beauty of some pink wines can be absolutely enchanting. Instructor and wine maven Kirstin Jackson will explore how Rosé is made and discover the flavors of strawberries, minerals, rose petals and cocoa powder that characterize the very best of this style. Paired with carefully selected cheeses and you have the perfect anchor for summer outdoor entertaining.

Old World Inspiration, New World Innovation, Tuesday, September 13, 6:30 – 8:30 pm

Cheesemaking in Europe is inspired by centuries of tradition. Cheesemakers in North America on the other hand are known for their cheese innovations. But can you taste the difference between a new and old world cheese? You be the judge. In this class, we'll taste a French double-crème against a similar cheese from the American south; an English cheddar alongside a Vermont one; and several other equally delectable match-ups. Along the way you'll discover what the most important components of a great cheese really are. Hint: It has to do with the cheesemaker.

Still want more education? These are some other classes I've been eyeing:

Mystery of the Caves, Thursday, August 4, 6:30-8:30 pm, Brian Ralph, At Murrays, NYC

See why Conde Nast Traveler named Murray’s Cheese Caves one of the 50 Coolest Places to see in the world. Join us as we share the world of cheese caves with you. Take a tour of the subterranean caves at Murray’s and find out exactly what goes on in there. Learn about basic affinage practices and the elementary science behind what happens to cheeses as they age. Enjoy your newfound knowledge as we lead you through a guided tasting of cave-aged gems so you can see (we mean taste) the benefits of the aging process for yourself.

Amazing Cheeses of Wisconsin and the Beers That Love Them, Monday, August 22, 6:30 – 8:30 pm (also at the Cheese School)

While we take a lot of pride in our California cheeses, Wisconsin has been producing more cheese than any other state in the nation for more than 100 years. Building on those traditions, trailblazing artisan cheesemakers are popping up all across the state. Sara Hill of Wisconsin’s own Milk Marketing Board will guide us through the evolving landscape, from rustic and simple cheese curds--‘squeakers’ in local parlance--to award-winning, artisanal masterpieces. Cheeseheads of all regions are sure to love this tasty tour of America’s dairy heartland...and brewland. Did we mention there would be beer?!

Instructor Sara Hill

Free Story Hour, Tuesday, August 23rd 3:00-5:00 pm, at Forward Foods, Norman, Oklahoma

Let’s start this school year off right! Join Cheesemonger Bailey for an hour of fun with cheese - We’ll read books, color, and even play with our food while the grown-ups shop! A free come-and-go event for ages 3 and up.

Parents/Guardians must remain in the store while children attend Story Hour.

Wine Rep Showdown! – Round 1 Ashley vs Megan, Round 2 Travis vs Shane, Thursday September 8, 7:00pm and Thursday September 15, 7:00pm, Scardello Cheese, Dallas, Texas

Two titans face off in Cheese Stadium! They pick the wine (Sparkling, White, Two Reds!) We pick the cheese! You decide. Whose wine will reign supreme?

Tuesday, August 23rd: FREE STORY HOUR AT FORWARD FOODS (3:00-5:00 PM)

Let’s start this school year off right! Join Cheesemonger Bailey for an hour of fun with cheese - We’ll read books, color, and even play with our food while the grown-ups shop! A free come-and-go event for ages 3 and up.

Parents/Guardians must remain in the store while children attend Story Hour.

Cheese Basics, Tuesday, Sep 27, 2011, At Artisanal, NYC

You may know you love a particular cheese, but do you feel tongue-tied when asked to tell another person what makes it so great? Are you at a loss when talking about a fantastic cheese + wine pairing? The range of vocabulary surrounding cheese is at least as vast as that around wine, but each of us already has the vocabulary to talk about cheese and wine, using colorful and expressive - yet everyday - words.

Ask the Cheesemonger: Perfect Ripeness, Thursday, September 29, 6:30 – 8:30 pm (also at the Cheese School)

Cheesemongers spend a lot of time with cheese. Over the years they learn to recognize what’s almost ripe, what’s fabulous, and what’s seen better days. The perfect window for cheese excellence can be as short as a few days or as long as a few weeks. In this class BiRite cheese buyer Anthea Stolz [the sweetest person in the world] will take us through a vertical tasting of the same cheeses at different stages of ripeness. You may find you prefer some cheeses older, while other younger. By the end you’ll be ready to snob it up with your favorite cheesemonger.

Have some I should add to the list? I'd looooove to get some more up here. Please let me know! Email me at itsnotyouitsbrie@gmail.com

Cheese & It's Circle of Friends: Yuzu Marmalade

As mentioned previously  on “It’s Not You, it’s Brie,” cheese has a wide circle of friends. It’s a social animal. It likes to party. Circulating only amongst its own kind has no appeal to cheese; it knows that it is only as well-rounded and nuanced as those it keeps in its company and that discriminating against non milk-based products would ultimately make life less tasty.

And we all know that dairy likes to be tasty.

In order to show itself best in as many ways as possible, cheese opens its arms wide to everyone. Don't matter where you're from, who's your daddy, what your name is, or if you're sweet and sugary or pickled and rambunctious. Cheese will take a chance on you.

One of my latest favorite pairings?

Yuzu marmalade and Alpine style cheese. Now, I love the extra feisty, bright, slightly spicy and bitter taste of yuzu, a Japanese citrus that is nearly impossible to find in the U.S. when not in preserved or juiced form, but other marmalades will work too- especially bitter orange. This is good because yuzu marmalade aint super cheap. Great news- a little goes a long way. Or, if you can find yuzu fruit, here's a recipe for the homemade stuff. Send me a sample.

The type of Alpine style cheeses we're talking about are mainly large format, cow's milk, washed rind, firm wheels. The originals are ones like Beaufort, Comté and Gruyere, and a few North American interpretations of them are Pleasant Ridge Reserve, Meadow Creek's Mountainer, Mountina, and the smaller wheel, Blondie's best.

Ever notice how some Alpine wheels have an almost tropical flavor to them- a bit of that pineapple bite that makes their finish on the tongue tangy, especially if it's really aged? Both citrus and sugar love that. Citrus loves it because the Alpine tang highlights its own inner fiesty qualities. Sugar loves it because it gives it an opportunity to use its sweetness to caress something with a seductively sharp edge (and we all now how much sugar loves a good caress).

Next time you have a slice of a prized Alpine in front of you, pair it with a little sweet citrus action. Marmalade, candied peel, whatever. See what you think.

If you haven't yet used yuzu or citrus with your cheese, what are some other things you like  to pair with your Alpines?

Limburger Cheese: Just as Stinky as You Like it.

Remember Monterey Jack on the Chip and Dale Rescue Rangers (Rescue Rangers= the cartoon, not the burlesque show)? Well, Monty, as he was known to his friends, was the Australian mouse who helped chipmunks Chip and Dale fight crime. Yet even though he was darn good at helping to put the right fox, cat, or dog in prison, he was better known for his love for cheese.

There was one cheese in particular that if he got a wiff of it, he was gone. Taken. Impassioned. Spent. Could do nothing else until he found that cheese and made it his own. That cheese was Limburger. Even though Monty was a secure mouse and never cared about what others thought, it was apparent in some episodes that Chip n' Dale thought Monty was crazy for loving a cheese that could smell so strong. Well, Chip n' Dale were not always the brightest, most cultured rodents.

The fussy chipmunks just didn't have the opportunity to taste Limburger at the age that would have pleased them. Oh, but I have. I have.

When I headed to Wisconsin last week to do delicious research for my cheese book, head cheesemaker Myron Olson at Chalet Cheese Co-op tasted us on Limburger at three stages- young & mild, slightly older & soft & sweet, and older & gooey & funky and strong. Amazing. Even though they were all versions of the same washed-rind cheese, the flavors, textures, and strength of the different ages varied like crazy. Honey mustard, rye bread and strawberry jam were also on board too. Young, the Limburger tasted like a fresh, less creamy Red Hawk. Older, the cheese tasted of and had the texture of Tallegio. Oldest, it tasted strong and pungent and begged for its classic pairing of rye bread, honey mustard and onion slices.

Below I share with you photos from my tour at the Chalet Cheese Co-op- the only remaining Limburger producer in the country. If you see Limburger in the U.S. that is made in the country, it's Chalet. It may have a proprietary label, but it is always Chalet pumping the sweetly funky flavor out. Pick it up and note the dates on the label- they will guide you to finding a cheese age you love. And you will love one of them. More about Limburger in my forthcoming book.

Places to find Chalet Cheese (please add to the list in the comments section!):

Bi-Rite, San Francisco

Maple Leaf Cheese Sales, WI (will ship, but not recommended in summer)  608-934-1237

Hefty Creek Specialities, WI (owned by one of Chalet Cheese's award-winning cheesemaker and yodeler), hefticreek@hughes.net, 608/325-6311

Have you had a chance to try Limburger at its different stages? What did you think? Which is your favorite?

La Clarine Sierra Mountain Tomme

La Clarine winery, farm, and cheese company first wins you over with its sweet husband and wife, small-production, all-natural approach story. Then, after a taste of their Sierra Mountain Tomme, the glory of the cheese itself hits and you consider calling to see if they need an intern.

Earthy, tangy and vibrant, La Clarine’s Tomme speaks to the virtues of biodynamics, living in the mountains, and raw-milk. A semi-hard cheese with a grey mold-dusted exterior, this goat's milk number exhibits a complexity that is entirely its own. Slightly salty and blessed with flavors of fruity green olives, grass, herbs and pepper, this cheese flips on its head the idea that goat cheese is sour, funky, and tastes like it came from a barnyard.

Instead, La Clarine's Tomme tastes like it came from a goat's heaven, full of fuzzy kids prancing about day and mother's grazing on whatever their little herbal and thistle-inspired hearts desire. Except tin cans.

Side Nibbles

Pair with something nutty and slightly sweet, like the Spanish fig cake pictured above, Medjool dates, or crispy apples. Alternatively, grate over a bowl of pasta cooked al-dente, drizzled with extra virgin olive oil, and sprinkled with salt and lots of freshly ground pepper.

Wine

Try a slice of La Clarine with a bright, light, and high-acidity red wine that will highlight the fresh, grassy flavors in the cheese, like Edmunds St. John Bone-Jolly Gamay or the Domaine de Collette Regnie Beaujoulais.

Oh, Banon: You Had me at Bourbon

There's something special about a cheese that comes in its own packaging ready-made for the grill.

Wrapped with chestnut leaves soaked in Woodford Reserve Bourbon, O'Banon is an easy party pleaser, a grilling wonder, and an example of the deliciousness that Indiana has to offer the dairy-loving world.

A cheese named in honor of the French version that inspired its creation, O'Banon is six-ounce disc of fresh goat's milk cheese made by the Capriole Goat Cheese Company. When young, it has a fresh and slightly tangy taste paired with a sweetness imparted by the spicy, vanilla flavors in the bourbon. As it ages, the bourbon's flavors further marinate the cheese and it develops a stronger, spicier, earthier, richer taste that strongly differentiates it from the original version that's soaked in eu de vie.

The complexity of this fresh, seemingly simple cheese is no surprise to those who are familiar with Capriole. Situated in the hills of southern Indiana, the company was launched by a family who, after hearing the call of the pasture in the late seventies, moved from the suburbs to the farm. Focusing entirely on goats milk cheese, Capriole keeps a sustainably run farm, promotes the virtues of raw milk cheese, recently won a first place award in the American Cheese Society Competition for their bourbon beauty, and consistenly rocks the fromage world with anything that comes out of their dairy caves.

Keep your eye on Indiana. I foresee this region acquiring just as much attention for its cheese in the future as Texas, or in other words, as much press as Lady Gaga gets for walking around city streets without pants.

Serving, Storing, and Eating O'Banon

Storing: I take this cheese out of its plastic wrapping as soon as it hits my kitchen and keep it in an airtight container in the fridge. Unless the cheese is not consumed in its entirety, there's no need to wrap it. Its leaves act as a natural wrapper.

Serving & Eating: O'Banon appreciates a little warmth in its life. Take it out of fridge half an hour before serving and let come to room temperature. Because of its strong bourbon flavors, keep it simple with food pairings. Accompany it with  sliced, crisp apples, fresh fig or pear.

Or you can blow your guests out of the water by warming the cheese.

Tossing O'Banon on the grill or in the oven is as pleasing to goat cheese lovers as baked brie is to those who like it buttery. Place O'Banon, still wrapped in its leaves, on a cooler portion of the grill or in an oven heated to 375 degrees for five to ten minutes, or until the center of the cheese is very soft to the touch and leaves are hot and toasty. Then, set on a plate and slice open to reveal a tender, warm, and tangy center. Serve with crostini or fresh, crusty bread and fruit.

Wine

The bourbon in O'Banon conflicts with very complex wines. Stick with wines that are straight-to-the-point, like Sauvignon Blancs from the Loire Valley, mineral Fiano D'Avellinos from Campania Italy, or high-acidity sparklings from around the globe.

Lastly, check out the recipes on the Capriole website! Goat Cheese Gougeres w/Katie's BBq Chicken Salad anyone? Or how about Cheese Enchiladas with Corn And Mole Sauce?

Coming soon: pistachio cream accouterment & ricotta gnocchi recipe.