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The Cheese Blog

 
Uncategorized Kirstin Jackson Uncategorized Kirstin Jackson

Achadinha's Capricious- A Photo Tour

Let's start off with some straight talk. Goat cheese haters can be found anywhere. Except for the slightly less satisfied look on their face that comes from consuming the shorter amino acid chains that are in goat cheese, they look like you and I. They walk like you and I. They even sound like you and I.

Achadinha's Capricious Let's start off with some straight talk- goat cheese haters can be found anywhere. Except for the slightly less satisfied look on their face that comes from consuming the shorter amino acid chains that are in goat cheese, they look like you and I. They walk like you and I. They even sound like you and I.

Yet they deny the goat its true dairy glory. Some say no to goat cheese all together. Some say no to certain styles, like fresh chevre, gouda, or very aged versions. But, dear readers, there is hope. All it takes is one goat cheese to open the door.

Pacheco goats. Want your cheese love.

There are entire realms to be explored. And just maybe, maybe, if you're unsure what style of goat cheese you might like, Achadinha's Capricious is your door.

Today's post focuses on Capricious made by Achadinha Creamery. It is aged, crumbly, hard, peppery, herbal, and, a little fierce. Imagine a ripped, tattooed Parmesan in a boxing ring. Capricious takes no prisoners, and it makes no apologies. It's a goat cheese, and it's damn proud. And you, my cheesy friend (hater or not) should try it. It's a goat cheese that some chevre-haters love and a cheese that makes goats proud.

Below is a photo tour of a visit to Achadinha. My amazing photographer friend Molly DeCoudreaux took all these photos (she rocks). Achadinha is a family company run by the third generation dairy family, the Pachecos, in Sonoma.

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Gathering the curds in a cheesecloth

Donna in her awesome homemade apron tying off the curds.

The Pachecos, about to squeeze remaining whey from Capricious.

Donny, in the crucial Squishing Step of Capricious.

In the cellar, after squished, pressed, and date-stamped.

Capricious in cellar, next to humidity controls.

Available in farmer's markets all over the California Bay Area, via Cowgirl Creamery shipping, and possibly at a cheese store near you. Have you tried Capricious? What did you think?

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Uncategorized Kirstin Jackson Uncategorized Kirstin Jackson

Gouda Ice Cream: What Not to Do

Inspired months ago by titillating 140-character cheese and dessert discussions on twitter, Pastry Chef Plinio Sandalio of Houston's Textile restaurant and I decided to collaborate on a gouda ice cream post. That is, he volunteered to supply the recipe and I would try to represent it to the best of my dessert abilities.


Gouda ice cream

Inspired months ago by titillating 140-character cheese and dessert discussions on twitter, Pastry Chef Plinio Sandalio of Houston's Textile restaurant and I decided to collaborate on a gouda ice cream post. That is, he volunteered to supply a recipe and I would make it to the best of my dessert abilities.

Because cheese ice cream recipes on the net had been whispering sweet nothings to me for months, when I heard that I could have one of Plinio's creations in my own  little, cheese-ripened hands, I said yes. Instantly.

Without further ado, here is a definitive list about what not to do when an outstanding pastry chef gifts you with the keys to a gouda ice cream palace, then, Plino's five-star recipe.

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Gouda Ice Cream: What  Not to Do

1. Don't worry about that the last time you used your ice cream maker, you weren't sure if it was working properly. It was your grandmother's. Of course it works.

Noord Hollander aged gouda

2. Forget that the pastry chef told you he used a 3 yr old gouda and buy a 4 yr old cow's milk gouda instead. Oops. A little intense. And don't think about using a goat's milk gouda, which would have lent a tangy, lively character to the sweet ice cream. Who needs a pesky flavor layer?

3. Depend upon your old strainer to extract the salty, caramelly gouda chunks from the custard base. Screw using a restaurant-quality chinois, cheese cloth, or butter muslin fabric. Everyone loves a chunky cheese ice cream. Yes?

4. Ignore the directions on the ice cream maker to freeze the results for at least an hour before consuming. It's much more fun when the dessert melts before it arrives to your mouth. You gotta catch it dripping off the spoon that way, works off all that cream!

Gouda Ice Cream

1 1/2 cups sugar

1 1/2 cups milk

2 cups heavy cream

1/4 cup light corn syrup

1/2 tsp salt

pinch xanthan gum

12 oz aged gouda

Whisk all together in a large sauce pan and heat slowly over low heat. Do not boil. Continue cooking on low until the custard base is thick enough to lightly coat a wooden spoon. Remove from heat.

Blend mixture in a food processor or blender until very smooth. Strain through a fine chinois, or with a sieve lined with butter muslin to remove all chunks.

Chill completley.

Freeze according to ice cream maker's instructions.

Eat

* I didn't have time to play around with the recipe much, but because the flavor of aged gouda is so strong, all 12 oz isn't really needed. You might be able to get by with only 6 or eight ounces. Let me know!

* Please leave updates on this post if you try this or variations of the recipe. I'd love to know how things went!

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