The Cheese Blog
Cheese Class & Beer vs. Wine Pair-off!
Been aching to take a sheep's milk cheese class or attend a Beer vs. Wine Cheese Pair-off for SF Beer Week? Do I even need to ask that question? If you're in the San Francisco bay area, free Wednesday night or Saturday day and want to come and check out an event I'm teaching or co-hosting, please do! I feel the fromagic in the air already.
Been aching to take a sheep's milk cheese class or attend a Beer vs. Wine Cheese Pair-off for SF Beer Week? Do I even need to ask that question? If you're in the San Francisco bay area, free Wednesday night or Saturday day and want to come and check out an event I'm teaching or co-hosting, please do! I feel the fromagic in the air already.
Wednesday, Feb 3rd
Sassy, Spicy, Seductive, Sheep’s Milk
There is a fabulous world of sheep’s milk cheeses out there beyond Manchego just waiting for your love. Hold my hand, and we’ll explore it together, spicy slice-by-slice and surprisingly creamy bite by bite. The score: pecorinos galore, Torta la Serena, Bellwether San Andreas, Cave-Aged Marisa, Ewe's Blue, Abbaye de Belloc, smoked ricotta, served alongside two wines and a sheep-friendly beer. Sign up, and be put in the running to win a free month of the "It's Not You, it's Brie" cheese club.
7:30 pm, $40 Reservations required.
Buy tickets online, or call Solano Cellars at 510.525.9463

Saturday, Feb 8th
Beer Vs. Wine Pair-off
It's SF Beer Week and the beer drinkers are talking smack about wine and vice versa. So we’re going brother against brother. Grains against grapes. And we’re going to pair the living crap out of 3 different cheeses. Certified Cicerone Sayre Piotrkowski is standing up to Fromagatrix Kirstin Jackson in a pairing challenge to see which booze makes the moves. Duvel vs All the Wine in the World. The cheeses: Vermont Butter & Cheese Bonne Bouche goat, Pecorino Toscano Reserva aged sheep's milk, Sweet Grass Dairy Grill Hill creamy cow's milk. Which beers and wines? That's top secret. Sounds like a fair fight to me! Bring your judge’s regalia and be prompt!
$18 for tickets online, or call Solano Cellars at 510.525.9463
(sheep above provide the milk for the Marcelli family in Tuscany, whose cheese will appear in the Wednesday class)
Cheese Class: You Don't Know Chevre!
Join Kirstin, instructor at the San Francisco Cheese School and author of "It's Not You, It's Brie" blog for a series of classes devoted to the holy cheeselover's trinity. You love goat cheese; you just don't know it yet. Get ready to warm your goat-loving heart and to be surprised by the miraculous and varied nature of chevre. By the way, goats wag their tails when they’re happy.
Spots are still open in the goat cheese class I'm teaching at Solano Cellars this Wednesday. Check out the write-up below, and spread the chevre love like a wildfire! I'd love to see some readers there!
The Cheese Lover's Trinity: A Tri-Milk Summit
Join Kirstin, instructor at the San Francisco Cheese School and author of "It's Not You, It's Brie" blog for a series of classes devoted to the holy cheeselover's trinity (and wine pours!). Stimulating the cheese lover’s palate through tasting, the class will explore the unique characteristics and temperaments of each cow, goat, and sheep's milk to consider what makes up some of the best cheeses around so damn good.
Wednesday, Jan 27th, 7:30 pm
Goat's Milk: You Don’t Know Chevre!
You love goat cheese; you just don't know it yet. Get ready to warm your goat-loving heart and to be surprised by the miraculous and varied nature of chevre. By the way, goats wag their tails when they’re happy.
Buy tickets here: Solano Cellars, or call the nice people at Solano Cellars, 1580 Solano Ave, Albany, CA 94707 at 510.525.9463.
And the upcoming sheep's milk cheese class:
Wednesday, Feb 3rd, $40
Sassy, Spicy, Seductive, Sheep’s Milk
There is a fabulous world of sheep’s milk cheeses out there beyond Manchego just waiting for recognition. Hold our hands, and we’ll explore it with you, spicy slice-by-slice and surprisingly creamy bite by bite.
Lincolnshire Poacher: All Hail a Cheddar King
Like buttered bread sprinkled with sea salt, béchamel lasagna, bone marrow with brioche, a crackling fire, and Pat Benatar, cheddar consistently supplies comfort without asking for anything in return. Except for you to upgrade to the good stuff.
Like buttered bread sprinkled with sea salt, béchamel lasagna, bone marrow with brioche, a crackling fire, and Pat Benatar, cheddar consistently supplies comfort without asking for anything in return. Except for you to upgrade to the good stuff.
I'm all for mixing the high with the low, and when it's time to make a potato gratin for a family of twelve, it's okay to buy cheddar a little lower than $20 a pound. But when it's time to whip out the cheese plate at the end of the night and there's a bottle of stout calling your name in the fridge or a Bordeaux looking pretty on the counter, that's when you want to go big.
Go Lincholshire Poacher.
One of my favorite cheddars, crafted by two robust cheesemaker brothers in the British countryside, is Lincolnshire Poacher.
Made from the milk of 230 Holstein cows eating organic grasses and grains in Lincolnhsire, east England, this cheese sets a high bar for the cheddar world. Although the Ulceby Farm producing the cheese has been in the Jones family since the early 1900's, cheesemaking didn't fully kick off until the nineties, after a Jones son went to agricultural school and played around with a Welsh cheesemaker with a little bit of rennet.
Lincolnshire is a beefy, sometimes sharp and spicy cheese with buttery tones. Although blessed with a little more funk than some, it is similar to other cheddars of nearby regions that are also made in small batches, and will get bolder as it ages. It is exported by Neal's Yard Dairy and can be found at Cowgirl Creamery in San Francisco's Ferry Building, and Cheeseboard and the Pasta Shop in Berkeley.
As far as its favorite drink, well, Lincolnshire is kind of a cheap date. It likes to party and would only slightly turn up its nose at a Long Island tea. However, it favors dark beers, dark red wines like Cabernet blends and Zinfandels and as far as whites, loves full-bodied Chardonnays and Viogniers. And whiskey and scotch and bourbon.
And that pretty little fruity thing in the ramekin next to it is Frog Hollow peach chutney. Lincolnshire Poacher appreciates a little spunk in its sweet acoutrement, so a number with onions, chile and sugar does it up well. Fresh, tart apple slices- also delicious.
What's your favorite cheddar? British? Born in the U.S.A or New Zealand?
Cheese Lover's Trinity: A Tri-Milk Summit
Join Kirstin, author of "It's Not You, It's Brie" blog, writer and instructor at Solano Cellars San Francisco Cheese School for a series of three classes devoted to the holy cheeselover's trinity.
Join Kirstin, author of "It's Not You, It's Brie" blog and instructor at Solano Cellars and San Francisco Cheese School for a series of three classes devoted to the holy cheeselover's trinity. Each class will examine the characteristics, bounty, differences, and unique temperaments of cow, goat, and sheep's milk through tasting six cheeses that illustrate the glories of each milk genre in order educate and stimulate the cheese lover’s palate. Prepare to learn, to be surprised, and to taste through some of the best cheeses available of each type. Time to test your cheese boundaries.
Wednesday, Jan 20th
From Triple Crèmes to Alpines –
Cow's Milk, Redefined
Wednesday, Jan 27th
Goat's Milk: You Don’t Know Chevre!
Wednesday, Feb 3rd
Sassy, Spicy, Seductive:
Sheep's Milk Like you've Never Tasted Before
7:30 pm, $100 for all 3 or $40 each
* Reservations required. *
Solano Cellars, 1580 Solano Ave, Albany, CA (510) 525 9463, kirstin@solanocellars
photo taken by Stephanie Stiavetti, former student & wasabimon author
Going Grand: New Years Cheese Ballers
A list of cheeses that would ring in anyone's sexy new year with a bang. This is also a list of cheeses that I will make every attempt to consume on a monthly basis in 2010.

I'm not making a cheese plate for New Year's. Instead, I'm going to a Raclette party and am going to eat melted cheese. All night long. When I'm not drinking. Or dancing.
But I still want to share a hypothetical cheese plate with you, or rather, share a list of cheeses that would ring in anyone's sexy new year with a bang. This is also a list of cheeses that I will make every attempt to consume on a monthly basis in 2010.
I'm thinking big and I'm not focusing on prices because I've heard that if you set your standards high and roll with the cheese ballers on New Years Eve, that the rest of your year will be blessed. So I'm also gilding my fromage plate in gold. If I could not jinx myself for a moment, 2010, you're going to be better than 2009. I'm going to hold you to it.
My New Year's Cheese Plate
Achadinha Capricious: Goat mik's cheeses come in many forms, and this firm, earthy, tangy number impresses me with it's nuances and complexities every time. Plus, its atypical nature and shape and size draws gasps of surprise from people who are certain they dislike goat cheese, so this one is going on the plate for sure.
Sampietrino: A cheese made out of cow and sheep's milk that is shaped like a square and has a crumbly center that tastes like mushrooms and buttermilk? No way it's not going on. God bless Italy, the land of the mixed milk fermentation.
Colston Basset Stilton: The only true Stilton, Colston Basset is made exclusively from the milk from four dairies in the Val de Belvoir in the English countryside. Although there has been no shortage of attention for blues this year, this is one that I keep coming back to with complete admiration. Colston Basset Stilton, rose confit jam, and late-harvest Chenin Blanc makes me the happiest girl in the world.
Vermont Ayr: This was the first cheese I choose for the "It's Not You, it's Brie" club. Back then, the wheel struck me with its earthiness and peanut buttery streak. When I broke into a new wheel last week, however, it tasted like buttermilk and really good beef fat (think rib-eye). Vermont Ayr is a testament to the living, breathing, changing nature of cheese.
Salvatore Bklyn Ricotta: Ricotta doesn't normally go on cheese plates. This one, however, blew me away when I visited New York. It was served warmed over grilled bread, sprinkled with sea salt and drizzled with olive oil. Bellewether's sheep's milk ricotta is amazing, but I was blown away by Salvatore's because I've never tasted a sexy version made from cow's milk . I can safely say that I've never had a better fresh cow's milk cheese than this. Serve warmed alongside crostini, sea salt, and good olive oil.
Happy New Year!
What will you be serving?
Cheese Balls: Artisan, Updated, Wonderous
Nothing besides crazed children running around department stores hopped up on seven times thier daily sugar limit makes me feel the spirit of the holidays more than cheese balls. So it is with great pleasure that I am sharing with you today my first article on NPR's The Kitchen Window, devoted entirely to this spherical ball of wonder. Comments at the end of the NPR piece are very, very welcome!
And here is a link to a holiday wine pairing article I recently wrote for Edible East Bay too, just in case you haven't picked out your juice for the big nights ahead.
Happy Holidays!
New York: Where the Cheese Never Sleeps
True, the year-round produce isn't as good (hello seasons!) as in California, and snow flurries aren't as cute as they sound when experienced in thirty degree east-coast weather, but in spite of New York's downfalls, I fell in love with the city again. Could have had something to do with the food. Not only do the city's best restaurants all serve perfectly cooked bone marrow, the place is rampant with damn good wine, beer and cheese.
What follows is a photographic tour of my fromagical cheese experiences in New York city. I got to gaze into cheese caves (although not pictured here, I was also able to check out Murray's caves), sit in on a class with Max McCalman of Artisinal, visit the best cheese shops in New York city and Brooklyn, and taste my little heart out.
I also got to meet some fantastic people outside of the dairy world, such as Olga of SassyRadish, Zen of Zenchef and Mel of Cook and Craft. But that is a bit blurry because of my lactose-induced haze. Thus begins the photo tour, with a special thank you to the incredibly funny and generous fromagier Tia Keenan, who pretty much arranged nearly every cheese step I took and who has more boots than Bloomingdales in winter.

- Artisinal Iberian Cheese Class
Sitting on on Artisinal's Iberian Cheese class, I was able to sample Ibores, Los Beyos, the best Evora I've ever tasted, Roncal, Garrotxa (which I'm convinced that Max McCalman never leaves home without, as it seems to appear on nearly everything he touches), and La Peral.

Class set up (complete with imported meats from Despana company). Go Iberico pig!

Formaggio Essex imports directly from some of the best cheesemakers in Europe. Check it out. And, they have two of the most lovely and passionate cheesemongers in the city working behind the counter who I was lucky enough to work with at Oakland's Pasta Shop. They'll tell you what you need to know.

- Bkyn Larder
Bklyn Larder is a shop packed to the brim with high-end cheeses and provisions, including the Von Trapp family's "Oma" cheese, and is run by a super nice man named Sergio who can lead you directly to the Salvatore ricotta, no questions asked.

- Lucy's Whey

Lucy's Whey is a little cheese shop in the Chelsea Market that has been open for three months. This is the only place where I tasted Dunbarton Blue, a blue/cheddar made from two brothers in Wisconsin (who look so wholesome there's no way they ever crossed state lines) that tastes divine and looks like a... brain.
One other shop that I wanted to visit but instead ended up kicking myself over missing, was Saxelby Cheese. Also in the Essex market, it had some of the best, ripest, sexiest Twig Farm cheese that I've ever seen.

